- #Sparkbooth live view too dark manual#
- #Sparkbooth live view too dark software#
- #Sparkbooth live view too dark iso#
If it's a little dark, I go back and adjust the strobe light up a notch or two and do it again. Then after focusing, and still in the camera settings menu, click "Take DSLR Photo" to take a sample shot so you can check how light or dark it is. I then turn the lens from the front if I need to adjust focus (it moves slightly sometimes when putting the lens cover on and off). I turn on the booth and stand in front and bring up the camera settings in sparkbooth so the live view kicks on. I use an Alienbee B400 and the highest I've needed it set so far was at half power. Then depending on the ambient light at the event I may adjust my strobe up or down so the lighting is perfect when the photo is snapped.
#Sparkbooth live view too dark iso#
I have an open air booth and normally have a backdrop about 5 feet away and run my Canon T3 with the aperature at F8, shutter at 1/200, and ISO about 200 or 400. No auto focus or pre-programmed shooting modes.
#Sparkbooth live view too dark manual#
The trick for a photo booth is that you run the camera on all manual settings. Spend a few hours reading online and you'll be set. There really isn't much to adjust once you know the basics of camera settings. You won't be disappointed with SB DSLR once it is working correctly.
#Sparkbooth live view too dark software#
If this is the case, you should judge your exposure from the histogram and exposure scale, rather than from looking at the LCD screen.If you already have a camera and equipment, work with John to get the DSLR software working as it sounds like you are having unusual errors.
If the ‘Exp.SIM’ is flashing it is probably because you are shooting in very bright or dark conditions, thus indicating that the image shown on screen will differ from that captured. If this is shown in white, it indicates that the image you are seeing on the rear screen is close to what the final image will look like. When looking at the Live View image on the rear LCD screen, you may see ‘Exp.SIM’ (which stands for Exposure Simulation) shown in the bottom right hand corner of the screen. One of the greatest advantages of Live View shooting with Canon EOS DSLRs is the ability to see, on the rear LCD screen, a live histogram and an approximation of exactly what the final image will look like. is the exp sim text flashing.įrom the CPN website. The display in live view is a "simulation" of the exposure and only really works over a limited range of lighting conditions. This may not be a problem with deep space objects but could pose problems with the planets and moon.Īnyone had any experience with this? Does it sound like it's working as intended?
Is this a problem with the software, or does it protect the screen from showing a blown out out exposure, or is this even relevent when taking astro pics? What I am concerned about is that live view wont tell me if I am overexposing.
The live view image of a 20 sec exposure is the same as a two minute one, though the actual recorded images are correct. After that, there is no difference in live view from say, 20 secs exposures upwards. I am setting up as per instructions (M, bulb setting, manual focus on lens) and am able to connect camera and get live view and take single shots and plans.Ĭhanges in shutter speed affects the live image, as does changes in iso, but only up to a point where the image is slightly over exposed. I am familiarising myself with APT by using it to control my DSLR (canon 550d), with lens attached, indoors, in artificial light.
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